Day 3 Tamale to Accra

NovSubmitted by Patricia Mawuli Nyekodzi

SUNYANI to WATamale to Techiman

9G-ZAF : Pilot : Patricia Mawuli Nyekodzi, Photo-Comms: Capt. Yaw

9G-ZAC: Pilot : Dr Patrick Ata, Nav-Photo-comms: Martin Talbot

Target: Techiman.

Arriving at the Air Force station we were pleased to see our little aircraft tucked up nicely in a BIG hangar. The Air Force chaps were, as always, welcoming and supportive. We were allowed to take the support vehicle around to the aircraft for fuelling, where, once again, our mobile fuelling platform worked wonders!

For once the satellite image showed clear skies. All good with regard to rain, but a sign that the Harmattan was biting it way down the country. During the Harmattan you must avoid flying East in the morning and West in the Afternoon due to the visual disturbances and lack of horizontal visibility (vertical vis remains good). Fortunately, we were heading South and then East. Nonetheless, the sand particles in the air leave a salty taste on the lips and thin, fine dusty grey-brown layer on all the parts of the aircraft that presented horizontally to the airstream.

WE fuel up, called the airport manager and thanked him again for the reception committee, just at the ATC chap who had brought us in last night and provided transport to our hotel, came by to wish us well on the return journey. Aviation is about a mind-set, going places, doing things in ways that are so very different to other transport methods. With it the camaraderie is strong, at all levels. Light Aviation pilots tend to be more approachable, mainly because they are not flying a tight schedule, but also because they can do things the big planes cant; fly without worrying about the fuel costs so much! But that is also why this class of aircraft is ideal for Humanitarian Aviation Logistics in places where helicopters and bigger aircraft are simply orders of magnitude beyond the reach of the vast majority.

Our man from the ATC, the air force personnel and passers by all took an interest as we fuelled and prepped for the day.

We started up and taxied to the hold, waiting for the Beech 1900D to depart on its once daily route to Accra, and set off behind, at a much more pleasant pace and at altitudes that allowed us to see the reality of life in this wonderfully diverse country.

We had all decided to make the stop point at Techiman instead of Kumasi. It was a simple no-brainer. The Chiefs of Techiman, so excited about the trip, had made special preparations of their dirt strip and arranged a school bus to bring children to the airfield there. Those kids were now our priority.

Flying down we passed the White Volta and then the Black Volta, near Buipe, where we saw some communities completely cut-off by flood waters.

 

Later we go to the amazing limestone structures at Kintampo.

Before routing around Techiman, spotting the blue roofs of Ghana huts as we made our approach into the shortest strip of our journey. Barely 300m of land-able area, compacted soil with a smattering of grass. No problem for us, and a pleasant change from the mile plus tarmac runways we could have taken off across, of the previous landings. The chiefs and the children stood patiently and in orderly fashion to the right of the runway.

 

 

Both aircraft made the strip first time and taxied back to descend to the smiling team at the strip-side. Techiman is a key market town in an area the size of several US States put together, it is reportedly the busiest market town in West Africa – and we can believe it!

The Paramount Chief, or Techimanhene, called and congratulated the team on their efforts and then we did a short encouragement session with the young people. Patricia is a role model for many in Ghana, and there were clearly several young ladies looking at her and thinking ‘I can do that!’.

 

 

Techiman sponsors one of its daughters to the AvTech Academy in Kpong already, and so they have realised the potential.

Techiman to Kpong

9G-ZAF : Pilot : Patricia Mawuli Nyekodzi, Photo-Comms: Capt. Yaw

9G-ZAC: Pilot : Martin Talbot, Nav-Photo-comms: Dr Patrick Ata

Targets: Kumasi, Ho, Kpong

Sadly, we had to leave all too quickly, and we were soon back in the Harmattan laden sky, heading towards Kumasi. We decided to de-rate Kumasi from a stop to a touch and go, mainly due to time, but also due to the uncertainty of weather. The Harmattan cuts out your distance vision of oncoming weather, and after Kumasi we needed to head East – towards any developing thunderstorms.

As soon as we climbed out from Kumasi, it was clear that we needed to change our route. We would need to head further north, crossing the Mampong ridge at a lower point and thus gain access to the massive Lake Volta.

Visibility fluctuated around the minimum for VFR and access to the lake was imperative. Once we could get low over the lake the sand particles would be less, due to the water mass. Sure enough, as we descended from 2,500feet down to 1,500feet we returned to more comfortable flying conditions. However, it would not be prudent to attempt crossing to Ho.

 

We therefore decided to use Akosombo as a replacement target. The spillway had been opened on the day we departed, due to the highest ever levels in the lake – evidenced by the flooded villages below. Town and villages that normally had several hundred of meters from the home to the waters edge were now maritime villages to the extreme.

We crossed the last bit of the lake near Battorkope, sad to see the water up to the roofs of many buildings.

 

 

The sight of the plums of water from the spillway at Akosombo took our collective breath away and we slowed for a moment to enjoy it before setting up for a final to land at Kpong. Just one more flight from completion…

 

Kpong – Accra - Kpong

9G-ZAF : Pilot: Capt. Yaw, Photo-Comms:Patricia Mawuli Nyekodzi,

9G-ZAC: Pilot : Martin Talbot, Nav-Photo-comms: Dr Patrick Ata

Target: Accra

Taking on board an extra 20 litres of fuel each, and for the first time putting Capt Yaw in the pilots seat, since Patricia’s pilot privileges do not allow her to land at the international airport, we contacted Accra and agreed on a slot in their busy schedule.

 

 

15:30 we touched down for a split second and at that point, we had achieved the unimaginable of a few years ago.

We cleared the airspace for the busy international airport as quickly as we could – but we could still hear an impatient pilot at the threshold waiting for his clearance. ATC at Kotoka International Airport, learned later, came to a standstill for a few moments. All the floors of the control tower had faces pushed to the windows; a marshaller on the apron called to ask ‘what aircraft were they?’ and history was made…

Flying back we relaxed, waving to each other from the two planes and, for once, 9G ZAC took the lead. Patricia had flown all but the last little bit of this awareness journey without an aircraft ahead. She took the majority of decisions, only guided by Captain Yaw when this trip, naturally, lead to new experiences and risk management decisions.

Back at Kpong, a formation low pass and then we both landed – AC first and then AF.

 

But this is not over… we then went to Accra for a reception and now we are only beginning the next phases of taking Humanitarian Aviation Logistics to those people who we have seen, living happily, but in need of more support, in the remote areas of this fantastic, diverse and potential laden country.

Medicine on the Move and WAASPS are proud to be able to provide the solutions, but this trip has only been made possible by the sponsors:-

Expresso – Dare to Dream

UT Bank

Atlantic Group

Wire Weaving Industries

Business and Financial Times

Thank you all – and thank you, the readers, for the thousands of hits on this blog already…

Day 2 Sunyani to Tamale

Submitted by Patricia Mawuli Nyekodzi

SUNYANI to WA

9G-ZAF : Pilot : Patricia Mawuli Nyekodzi, Photo-Comms: Capt. Yaw

9G-ZAC: Pilot : Dr Patrick Ata, Nav-Photo-comms: Martin Talbot

Targets: Bui Dam, Mole Game Reserve, Wa.

Last night ended with a massive downpour, lightening and thunder to shake the very foundations of your heart, especially if you know that your aircraft is tied down on the apron of Sunyani Airport… getting a thorough soaking.

We woke up to a stormy sky, showers surrounding the area. We loaded the support vehicle and set off to the airport. Both aircraft had spent a comfortable, but wet night, tied down, controls locked. They were both very wet.

Undishertened by the sky’s gloom, we set to wiping down and preparing to fuel-up, having been unable to with the available time after the support vehicle arrived yesterday.

Just as the wings were dried off, collapsible fueling platform positioned and canisters in place – the water descended to dampen thing again. The only undampenable item being our spirits!

Wiped down again, fuelled up, ATC informed, friends greeted and farewelled, we started the engines – very late. It was 10:00 as we taxied to the runway and lifted up into the clearing skies towards the north.

Our estimate for Bui in one hour was precise. The sharp escarpments of the unique geology of the area punctuated the landsacape with obliques towards the Black Volta, gushing its mud laden waters towards the Volta Lake – many, many kilometres away.

 

The dam has progressed a long way since Patricia did her survey flight for the Authority a few years ago. We all enjoyed the magnificent and amazing views that, in a few years, will never be seen again – once the dam is closed and the third hydro-electric project of Ghana enters service. We profited royally, filling our eyes and our memories with the sheer magnitude of the black volta and its surrounding countryside. Our eyes skimmed the surface of the waters for Hippos, without success.

 

A pass over the dam site, and we set a course direct to Mole. The landscape changes rapidly, as if we had entered another time and place. The beauty of the countryside, the strategy of the traditional village layouts, the innovation of human survival over thousands of years was different here. As we approached Mole we could see the airstrip, made from compacted latterite, brown and straight, surrounded by trees. The airstrip there had been visited by a pilot on a ground trip last week, and although useable in an emergency, we had confirmed that it needed maintenance before it could be used for ‘regular’ landings. It would not take much to clear the grassy tufts, fill the resultant holes and re-compact the facility. If it had been available we all wanted to land there, but know that the challenges of maintenance in these areas is far more complex than in the more temperate climates. The weather, the rate and strength of growth of the plant life, the movement of animals and people, all change the equation, and make what may seem a simple task elsewhere a dramatic challenge here.

Flying over the main water hole near the guest accommodation in the reserve we headed north. Knowinth that this is the end of the rainy season, the elephants have not yet returned to the proximity of the main water hole. There is plenty of water all over the place. Rumour had it that the elephants would have gone north. Received wisdom told us that we would not see elephants in the thick end-of-rainy-season grasses, shrubs and trees. Content to see the landscape, we pressed on.

Then, we saw elephant tracks – clearly discernable, long, meandering swathes of tall grasses laid down as if the Paris-Dakar ralley had run through the area! For safety, one crew must fly and look out for hazards, whilst the other scours the ground for signs of wildlife. We decide to carry out a quick orbit, just in case, but understanding that we would be very very lucky to see even one elephant with the dense flora below.

Then, Patricia cried out. ‘I have seen them, I have seen them!’ There, below us were tens of elephants – big ones, small ones, some as big as a house. They raised their trunks and moved as a military body, their walk turning to march and then to a sharp cross country run. It was clear now that we had a chance of getting some photos. For once Capt. Yaw allowed Patricia to relinquish the controls as she was so excited at her second ever sighting of an elephant. She had previously spotted one in Digya, and prior to that never seen an elephant in real life. Here it was unlike anything you could possibly imagine.

Ghana is not like East or South Africa, where the vast low lying areas make wildlife spotting easier. No, this is dense vegetation and wildlife can hide from you just six feet away in the foliage.

AC and AF co-ordinated their turns as photos were aquired and spirits raised to new heights.

On to Wa, and to the Harmattan. Sand particles suspended in the air. Carried from the Sahara desert to shroud the sky, diffuse the sun and frustrate pilots!

Landscapes changed again. Sorgum, millet and other crops, laid out in less uniform manners. Plouged by hand or by a bullock plough, this really is place with a different perspective.

On the ground in Wa the dry heat hit us. Both aircraft had noted a slight rise in engine temperatures, an indicator that we were into the semi-arid regions of West Africa.

The welcome by the security team was fantastic. Augustine could not stop smiling, noting our registrations and clearly proud of his daughter of Africa, Patricia, as he and his team looked over the creations that they had only heard about before. Wa is not a well frequented location – but it has the most wonderful runway! Wa must become a regular place to visit, for its welcome and its very different beauty to the other parts of Ghana.

Targets Achieved.

WA to Tamale

9G-ZAF : Pilot : Patricia Mawuli Nyekodzi, Photo-Comms: Capt. Yaw

9G-ZAC: Pilot : Martin Talbot, Nav-Photo-comms: Dr Patrick Ata

Targets: Bolgatanga, Tamale.

We looked to the sky and saw the dense Harmattan to the north. Considered the time delay from the morning, and the sunset time of 17:46. Reluctanctly we agreed that it was prudent to change the plan. We would route directly to Tamale, and come back next year to visit Bolgatanga by air. In fact, if the Navrongo airstrip is available, we may even go there and land!

As we flew the ninety minute Wa-Tamale leg, our decision was vindicated. The sky to the North was not suitable for VFR (Visual Flight Rules) operations. Furthermore, a storm cloud on the edge of the Harmattan zone created dangerous updrafts, necessitating a weather avoidance turn to the south.

Now, the community layout took on a cluster arrangement of round huts wearing conical thatched roofs. Amazing, beautiful and totally different to anything seen so far on our journey.

 

We approached the wide and long Tamale strip, and realised that Tamale really an under-apprecaited airport! If you have not been there – you must go!

 

The welcome and reception committee brought a lump to our throats as we realised the appreciation of the team there.

Ghana Airforce agreed to allow us to park up for the night in their hangar, and as the sun set on day 2, we were happy, our minds in overload, our visual cortexes unable to process the diversity and immensity of the days sights. Our hearts a little sad at missing a target, but we remain confident that tomorrow holds new challenges and we made the right call about Bolgatanga on safety grounds.

Day 1 Koforidua to Sunyani

Submitted by Patricia Mawuli Nyekodzi

KPONG TO TAKORADI…

9G-ZAF : Pilot : Patricia Mawuli Nyekodzi,  Photo-Comms: Capt. Yaw

9G-ZAC: Pilot : Dr Patrick Ata, Nav-Photo-comms: Martin Talbot

Targets: Koforidua, Cape Coast, Takoradi.

Low clouds hugging the ridge and shrouding Krobo Mountain at 06:00 this morning were not good signs.  Nonetheless, in true aviator spirit, we prepared our aircraft for their flights.   All safety precautions were taken, equipment stowed and crews prepared mentally for the trip ahead. 

Our route has been laid out on three laminated map segments – Southern, Central and Northern. Today, the first day, uses the Southern and Central maps.

Media was ready for the departure, and we busied ourselves gaining time as we waited for the break in the clouds that would enable us to gain the transit necessary.  Finally, at 08:00,there were two visible passages, and a clear VFR on top route to Koforidua. 

We waved goodbye and climbed aboard the machines, lining up in tandem on runway 19 of Kpong Airfield, the AvTech girls, cameramen, media-men and media-women. 

As Expresso says ‘Dare to Dream’ and where our dream had started many years ago, today the dream was becoming a reality, thanks to the support of our sponsors for this flight, Expresso, UT Bank, BFT, Wire Weaving, Atlantic and WAASPS.

Operating at maximum weight the aircraft accelerated down the runway and climbed out with a shallow turn to the right.  The sun glimmered through the clouds, but there was still visible rain to the North and to the South of the desired route. 

As we reached 2000 feet, we could see that a VFR On Top route was going to be very acceptable.  Flying over the scattered clouds, with a clear vision of the ground below through the mottled balls of floating cotton wool in the sky.

Arriving at Koforidua, our first Regional Capital on the list, in the Eastern Region, the excitement in the cockpit could be felt so strongly you could have put a rivet in it and it would have stayed suspended in the, seemingly structurally sound, excited air!

Still on top, but with growing holes of clear paths of descent, we cruised on at 3000 feet in the direction of Cape Coast.  Patricia lead the patrol, and Patrick flew about 500m behind in the 4’o clock position (behind and to the right).

Along the way, our eyes feasted on so many marvels… but Patricia’s eyes were fixed like an eagle on the track, instruments and the 6 minute checks that are inbuilt to the competent pilot.  ‘Fuel, Radio, Engine, Altitude, Attitude and Airframe’, checked ten times each and every hour.

Meanwhile, Capt. Yaw, sitting right seat in AF,  was busy snapping out the window or filming the passing countryside as well as being designated the radio operations.

Watching the passing  mango trees, plantain/banana plants, cocoa trees, oil palms, coconut palms, cassava fields, citrus trees, maize and sugar cane fields, it was as if were floating along the isle of some great commodities market, our unique perspective opening our minds to the outstanding potential locked up on the surface below.

Of course, the tropics is not just about things we can eat; the raffia palms majestically, adorn the soggy riverbanks and the mahogany trees, of many different varieties, stand tall from the rain forests.  Ghana has a health approach to forest reserves and it the thick, dense, virgin rain forest blocks that are protected by law, as well as by the majority of the people, cast their long shadows across the countryside.

Radio chatter from the airliners, regional transport and oil field helicopters punctuated the journey and provided our listening watch to pressure changes (which we use to set our altimeter) and weather information.

Using the Ghana SafetyCom frequency between the two aircraft, we occassionly passed a message back and forth.  Our X-Com radios provide for two communications on one frequency and listening on another, switching between the two with quick press of the flip-flop button.  However, the two pilots, both fully trained in Ghana and neither having ever taken a flying lesson outside of the country.

We passed the road construction of the new Accra-Kumasi route, which is much more impressive when you fly over, rather being stuck in a queue of traffic BECAUSE of it!

Later we slid beneath the pockets of cloud, and flew around 600feet above the ground towards the coast at Saltpond.  We deviated slightly eastwards in the hope of snapping an oil rig, but the moisture laden air did us no favours for photography of that sort.  Nonetheless, we were now ideally located for a flight along the coast, littered with coconut palms, decorated with large, hand hewn, wooden fishing vessels befitting of a historical novel. 

The coast between Saltpond and Takoradi has a macabre history.  That of the slave-trade.  The slave castles perched on the waters edge where the, thankfully, long gone trade in people, mothers, fathers, sons and daughters of this land, once occurred.  This blot on mankind’s history has left behind it some magnificent structures.  As in the UK the castles of middle ages, where murder and slavery were commonplace, are now sites of historic interest and a place to take the kids for a picnic; so today these castles make their sentinel like presence available for historical-tourism. 

Castles behind us, we turn inland and position for a right base rejoin to Takoradi’s military airfield, that is also the hub of the aviation activity for the recently discovered, and yet to be exploited, oil-rich waters of Ghana.

With less than three kilometres to run the rains started, splattering the windscreen and coming through the camera openings.  Keeping the flaperons away, Patricia held a high approach and then, reducing the engine power, pushed down for 70kts and flew low over the glimmering damp runway for a smooth, albeit long, touchdown.

Turning off the runway onto the apron, 9G ZAC was low in the sky, wheels yearning to kiss the ground. 

Our designated marshall parked us next to a French registered aerial survey single engine Cessna 206.  The pilot of the 206, a friend who had taken a trial flight with Patricia at Kpong earlier this year, came out to greet, along with the NHV team from the oil rig flyers and the smartly uniformed and incredibly polite Ghana Air Force Personnel.

Patricia and Martin stayed with the crowds at the planes, whilst Patrick and I visited the Base Commander.  Welcomed into his office, where pictures of Ghanaian Military Aviators run the periphery of the room, we exchanged our stories of aviation and thanked the Air Force for their kindness, before heading to the Tower.

In the Tower, we checked the satellite images for weather information and headed back to the apron where our aerial-stallions awaited their riders for the next segment of the trip.

Targets Achieved: Koforidua, Cape Coast, Takoradi.

TAKORADI TO SUNYANI…

9G-ZAF : Pilot : Patricia Mawuli Nyekodzi,  Photo-Comms: Capt. Yaw

9G-ZAC: Pilot : Martin , Nav-Photo-comms: Dr Patrick Ata

Targets: Mim, Sunyani

We sat on the apron at Takoradi and watched the grey mass of clouds coming from the East, advancing like a herd of elephants storming across the country.  To the West and slightly North, the change of pressure had spawned another storm cell.   Oil rig helicopters, painted yellow, whisked their ‘self-loading’ cargo of workers to and from the FSPO Kwame Nkrumah, Ghana’s first oil production venture, named after the first president of this stable West African nation.

A Beechcraft 1900D, running ahead of the storm, did a quick turnaround and passed ‘coast side’ to make its way back to Accra.  We did not have that option.

Finally, Captain Yaw spotted a passageway, but the window was small.  The crews slid into the pre-flighted aircraft and called Takoradi for start-up, which was approved by the military controller almost before the call was completed.

There was no need to back track the full length of the tarmac, the Ch701 only needing ten meters of  the smooth black surface to get its wheels in the air, nonetheless, with the risk of crosswinds, the nose was kept down for about fifty meters, until we were certain that a smooth and rapid climbout could be initiated.  Patricia eased the stick back about half an inch, and 9G-ZAF, the plane she had lovingly built shot skywards like a love-sick angel.

9G-ZAC, also built by Patricia and the WAASPS girls, followed closely.  Martin, who has previously flown across Europe in Yak aircraft, positioned at the 7 O’clock position, allowing Patricia to weave the route past the water mountain dwarfing the aircraft to our right.

Turbulence was strong, as to be expected, but the CH701, chosen for its range and manouvreability, was easily able to counter the rocking motions that the weather was trying to force upon the machines.

Takoradi was rapidly disappearing under torrents of rain.  Without a thorough knowledge of the local weather patterns, such a departure would have been foolhardy, but Captain Yaw has flown extensive ‘coconut surveillance’ operations in the area, and, coupled with the satellite image monitored immediately prior to departure, had a balance approach to the risks involved.  Furthermore, Patricia had already flown 9G-ZAC out of Takoradi about year ago, working around storm cells, even going out over the sea to remain in calm air, on a flight back to Kpong.  Experience, especially of how tropical weather behaves, is essential before embarking on an adventure such as ours.  All risks must be balanced and safety must be kept paramount in the mind as well as in the actions.

Fifteen minutes later we enjoyed the clear air and fresh views as we set our cap on Mim.  The route to Mim is not one that is often flown, probably less than once per year, and so we had little or no radio chatter after leaving the ‘Oil capital’ of Ghana behind us.

We flew over masses of thick forest as far as the eye could see, saw gold mines, small scale, often illegal, mines, flooded rivers, cashew plantation (at Mim) and more as we enjoyed the air at 2000feet for the majority of the leg.

We did our low pass at Mim and landed in Sunyani at 15:00… tired, thirsty and hungry – hungry.  Tired from the adventure, thirsty for more and hungry for tomorrows flight to the North and its very different terrain!